Guide to the best of Margaretville, Roxbury and Southern Delaware County
A morning view of Lake Wawaka from the bridge in Halcottsville, a residential area with stunning walks and scenery.
By PERRI ORMONT BLUMBERG
While not a complete secret, Margaretville and the scenic surrounding areas seem to play second fiddle to their better-known neighbors to the east, like Phoenicia and Woodstock, and to the south Livingston Manor and Callicoon. But we’re here to tell you that not only Margaretville, but especially nearby Roxbury, should be on your must-visit list for their eye-popping scenery, burgeoning business community and myriad activities. The distinctly rural character coupled with a blossoming food and culture scene makes this a part of the Catskills that should be on your radar.
Read on for where to dine and what to do when you put on your OOO and slip into vacation mode.
WHERE TO DINE AND DRINK
MARGARETVILLE
Located about 140 miles northwest of New York City, Margaretville is the business hub of the region. It may be a small village of some 600 residents, but the area is awash in stunning scenery including bucolic farms and trout-filled waterways, a solid foundation for any Upstate trip. Throw in worthy dining destinations and myriad outdoor pursuits, and you’re well on your way to a memorable vacation.
This family-owned local eatery (as the Italian name implies) is, well, family-owned epicurean perfection. Was in an "old house"-style setting but has recently moved to the former Crazy River Cafe location across town. The Italian menu boasts wonderful cuisine including handmade pasta, homemade bread, and hand-pulled mozzarella. Save room for the delectable tiramisu, strawberry cream crostata, and blood orange cream cake—and pencil in that hike for tomorrow.
42287 NY-28, Margaretville, NY 12455, 845.464.5305
Originally known as The Binnekill Square and an area staple, this centrally-located restaurant perched over the Binnekill Stream received a refresh with new ownership and new chef Bryan Calvert in 2018. Savor “mountain comfort food” with recognizable favorites like honey glazed salmon and terrific burgers, and sip craft cocktails at the copper bar, by the fire, or out on the dining terrace.
746 Main Street, Margaretville, 845.586.4884
For grown-up fun, visit Arkville Brewstillery—the home of Union Grove Distillery and the newly added Calico Outlaw Brewing. Two great NY Farm craft producers under one roof, offering beer on tap and craft cocktails. This farm-licensed craft distillery creates vodka distilled from apples and wheat, and vodka distilled from local maple syrup. You can purchase to-go, or better yet, grab a seat and enjoy a craft cocktail or beer on their front deck. Check social media for their periodic live music events. Located in Arkville. (Arkville and Margaretville are really at either end of the same “neighborhood.”)
43311 State Route 28, Arkville 607.287.0208
Photos, clockwise from top left: Red Cottage Inc., Torkil Stavdal, Red Cottage Inc., Jennifer Grimes
If you’re traveling with kids, they’ll beeline straight for the ice cream and milkshakes. If it’s just the adults, you’ll be glad you embraced your inner child and lined right up for ice cream too.
86 Bridge Street, Margaretville, 845.586.4440
Oh, Cafe Marguerite. Let us count the ways we love you: Quiche, avocado toast, smoked salmon on an everything croissant, pain au chocolat, toasted almond horchata, maple latte, to name a few that are top of mind. Coffee snobs will rejoice at their offerings, but also don’t leave without trying their spicy hot chocolate or white chocolate (!) beverage.
746 Main Street, Margaretville, 718.484.2121
Folsom Point, nestled in the scenic Catskills and founded by Alex and Maria in 2022, is a testament to their shared passion for wholesome, organic goodness. Beyond a business, it reflects their commitment to locally sourced ingredients, organic cold-pressed juices, and thoughtfully crafted sandwiches on homemade bagels. As a family-run establishment, Folsom Point celebrates the essence of family and community, expressing gratitude to the Margaretville community for their support and inviting all to experience the warmth, genuine connections, and simple pleasures at their inviting haven.
45278 Rt 30, Margaretville
ROXBURY
Roll into the bijou hamlet of Roxbury, which is a picturesque drive under 20 minutes from Margaretville, and you’ll sense the hybrid “hip-rural” vibe, where sophisticated offerings are delivered in a pleasingly personal and friendly way. They’re so glad you’ve come by. Whether born and bred locals or ex-urbanites, these local entrepreneurs have put their own spin on their particular offering, and the community embrace has made Roxbury a great destination for a road trip, or if you just need to pick up some supplies to bring home with you. There are now a few food and drink options, to consume there or take away.
Only the daring opened businesses during a pandemic, and Watershed has gone from strength to strength, providing a daytime hub for the community. This trendy locale now serves breakfast, lunch, coffee and sinful baked goods, not to mention refreshing cocktails on its welcoming front porch. This is a favorite spit for tastey sandwiches too. A cup of New York’s Abbotsford Road coffee and fresh mountain air is about as good a way to start the day as we can think of, so join us here pronto.
53470 State Highway 30, Roxbury, 607.326.6336
Opened in late summer 2021, gourmet grocer and sandwich-erie that’s perfect for stocking your fridge when you’re in town; load up on imported cheeses, artisanal coffee, and more. Bagels with the works? Don’t mind if we do. They also serve breakfast, lunch, and dinner, and that has been such a hit we think we’ll see more in that department. Recent blackboard items: Reubens, soppressata, mozzarella, pesto on grilled focaccia, and salads too!
53530 State Route 30, Roxbury, 845.901.2351
With a more extensive menu than some of the smaller eateries, head here for lunch or dinner and choose from artisanal pizzas to steak to vegan options. And they make a heck of a Bloody Mary “Explosione” (with shrimp and bacon garnishes). In comfortable weather, the outdoor beer garden is a great spot to unwind after a busy day of excursions. Open seven days a week.
53535 State Route 30, Roxbury, 607.326.7020
The Old Mill has been given a facelift since coming under new management (the same owner as Chappie’s above), cherishing a lot of the wonderful rustic features of having been a blacksmiths and a mill, and repurposing many of the antique finds they discovered in the building, like old boards for the back bar. While their food menu isn’t on their site yet, their cocktails menu is, so we like it already.
2318 County Route 41, Roxbury, 607.326.6090
Explore a diverse range of locally sourced products including fresh produce, dairy (Clark’s Dairy and Mountainside Farms), meat, and a great beer selection. Curated grocery store open seven days a week!
53525 State Highway 30, Roxbury, 607.326.6505
If you’re looking to fill out your vacation liquor cabinet (and grab a bottle or two to bring back to loved ones), this inviting wine shop offers a great experience right in the hamlet of charming Roxbury. Plan to chat with the owner and be introduced to your new favorite tipple.
53484 State Highway 30, Roxbury, 607.326.6200
Should you be looking for an excuse to visit the divinely beautiful hamlet of Halcottsville, set around the shores of Lake Wawaka, there is one shop, but it’s the only one you need. Tucked out of sight, Sweet Pea Supply Co. is a treasure trove of edible goodies, home to some of the best baked treats in the area. While you’re in there satisfying your sweet tooth, stock up on their locally sourced supply of pantry staples and other prepared foods.
124 Bragg Hollow Rd, Halcottsville, NY 12438 (607) 326-6776
NOTABLE AREA ADDITIONS
For those of us who live here full time, we know that there are plenty of destinations worth the extra few minutes’ drive. Here are a few of our favorites that are just a bit beyond Margaretville and Roxbury.
Peekamoose Restaurant & Tap Room
For a meal Manhattanite day tripper’s dreams and epicurean fantasies are made of, make a reservation at the destination restaurant in Big Indian, 15 minutes from Margaretville. Marybeth and Devin Mills, the dynamic duo behind the spot, sharpened their skills at Gramercy Tavern, Michelin-rated Le Bernardin, the Hudson River Club, Picholine and Guastavino’s, before opening this celebrated eatery with a dynamite ambience. Hugely popular for après-ski, it’s about a seven-minute drive from Belleayre Mountain. Good thing you’ve got a place for postprandial recovery instead of trekking back to the city. Reservations are a must at this popular spot.
8373 State Route 28, Big Indian, 845.254.6500
Inspired by traditional colonial eating houses, where neighbors would gather to socialize, clink glasses, slurp broth and loosen a top button, Brushland Eating House brings all the comforts of home to the table in an atmosphere that exudes warmth. Sara and Sohail Zandi, the brains behind the operation, focus on extraordinarily good classics, leveraging local ingredients and serve up a culinary and dining experience that has generated mountains of rave reviews. 20 minutes from Margaretville.
1927 County Highway 6, Bovina Center, 607.832.4861
So much more than just a place to pick up bottles of great cider, Wayside is a destination. With two barns exuding an old world vibe and a long bar that beckons, you’ll be charmed into lingering and to stay for their tasty eats. If live music is on, clear the calendar, it’s where you want to be. About 15 minutes from Margaretville.
55 Redden Ln, Andes, 845.676.6002
FOOD + WINE MARKETS + SHOPS
Open 7 days a week, you’ll want to stock up on supermarket basics here. It has a decent selection of everything, including fresh produce, and is right in the center of town.
36 Bridge St, Margaretville
Head to the gorgeous Round Barn and spend your Saturday exploring the selection of some of the Catskills’ finest pasture-raised meats, trout, cheeses, breads as well as bedding plants for your garden and patio, jewelry, soaps, quilts, wool, wood products and more. Bring a big appetite and enjoy a farm fresh meal right at one of the many picnic tables. Pro tip: The early bird catches the most popular products which can sell out. Open mid-May to mid-October.
46676 State Highway 30, Halcottsville, (845) 586-3326
Pakatakan Farmers’ Market at the Round Barn in Halcottsville.
Photo Eve Silverman
Maine Black Bear Seafood Restaurant
If you’ve got a hankering for seafood, head to Arkville, where tucked into an unprepossessing building you’d otherwise drive right by, is an under-the-radar seafood shop offering Maine lobster, swordfish, scallops, mussels, clams, haddock, tuna, shrimp, etc. by its legendary if slightly gruff proprietor Bruce. He’d been trucking fresh seafood from Maine to the area some 36 years ago when he decided to make the move and open the shop. Patrons embrace the somewhat eclectic surroundings and swear by the quality and freshness. Call for current hours of operation.
13 Riverside Drive, Arkville, 845.586.4004
If you’re looking to fill out your vacation liquor cabinet (and grab a bottle or two to bring back to loved ones), this inviting wine shop offers a great experience right in the hamlet of charming Roxbury. Plan to chat with the owner and be introduced to your new favorite tipple.
53484 State Highway 30, Roxbury, 607.326.6200
Run by the same tireless folks who draw devotees northward to Brushland Eating (see above), Russell’s has got you covered for an informal breakfast, brunch or lunch. Grab some staples, perhaps some penny candy, but definitely enjoy a sweet surprise with a slice of one of Magpies’ scrumptious pies, or satisfy your savory craving with a pot pie hand crafted by the King of Pot Pies himself, Antonio Mora. You’ll go for the Norman Rockwell-esque vibe, but leave singing its culinary praises.
2009 County Highway 6, Bovina Center, 607.832.4242
Oda Wine Garden specializes in ancient world and natural wines in a lovely atmosphere. Enjoy Balkan small plates while sipping on unique and timeless wine.
743 Main St, Margaretville
RETAIL THERAPY
Originally a purveyor of mostly wonderful housewares with a few gifty things (think large selection of cookware, knives, baking and cooking essentials, cookbooks, stationery, and candles), it has broadened its inventory to include the best of local farmers’ produce and products, including fresh cheeses and baked goods, breads and other fresh irresistibles.
784 Main Street, Margaretville, 845.586.4177
Housed in the historic Commons Building, this marvelous, artist-run gallery is open on weekends, with exhibitions changing monthly. Expect the works from both professional artists from New York City and rural Empire State artists on display.
785 Main Street, Margaretville, 607.326.6936
Photos, clockwise from top left: Paul Weil, the rest are Red Cottage Inc.
On any given visit to Kria, you might stumble upon a snail shell objet d’art or a mineral ice hand-dyed silk pillowcase, along with no shortage of dainty, eye-catching jewelry. The boutique was co-founded by Icelandic designer Jóhanna Methúsalemsdóttir and visual artist Paul Weil, and it’s tucked inside the historic Galli-Curci Theatre on Main Street.
801 Main Street, Margaretville, 347.277.6917
Purveyors of an eclectic and appealing range of goods, from dreamy woven throws and sleek coffee table books, to fun barware, local jams and novelty throw pillows. This is a winning choice for grabbing a memento of your Upstate getaway.
53587 State Highway 30, Roxbury, 607.326.6118
Honeybee Herb Farm and Apothecary
This fine establishment has been cultivating medicinal herbs in the Catskills since 1999. Forget mass-produced junk, the apothecary specializes in growing food for their native honeybees, focusing on endangered species of forest plants. The anti-inflammatory healing salve is particularly fabulous after a few hours on the trails.
785 Main Street, Margaretville
Margaretville Hospital Auxiliary Thrift Shop
If thrifting is your middle name, carve out some time to wander this selection of gently used and regularly rotating household items, clothing, shoes, textiles, books, and more. Bonus: You’re supporting the local hospital and residential care center while you shop.
743 Main Street, Margaretville, 845.586.3737
WHAT TO DO AND SEE
Above from top left clockwise: Dry Brook Ridge hiking trail, part of which is included in the Huckleberry Loop. Belleayre Mountain, known primarily for its skiing and family-friendly environment (bottom right), offers year round activities including swimming, kayaking and more at “Belleayre Beach” (top right). The Catskill Mountain Yoga Festival certainly has an extraordinary platform for connecting with nature in summer, perched as it is on Plattekill Mountain, a ski destination particularly popular with tree skiers, in Roxbury.
Photos clockwise from top left: Charlie and Jessica Duke; Belleayre Mountain; Catskill Mountain Yoga Festival.
In terms of attracting sheer numbers, the biggest draw to this region must be Belleayre Mountain in Highmount, just over 10 minutes from Margaretville, where around 150,000 skiers take to the slopes every year. While about the same drive time from the George Washington Bridge as larger mountains Hunter and Windham, the crowds are decidedly more manageable.
Cool off in Pine Hill Lake or laze on the beach at the base of Belleayre, the ski resort on its namesake mountain, about 10 minutes down the road from Margaretville. Kayaks and stand-up paddleboards are also available for rent. While you’re there, you might also want to check out a scenic gondola ride and enjoy a picnic at the summit. (For more on area skiing, see our blog post Skiing in the Catskills and Hudson Valley.)
33 Friendship Manor Road, Pine Hill, 845.254.6195
Family-owned and operated, Plattekill Mountain in Roxbury is a cult favorite, especially for tree skiiers. Pro-tip: you can actually rent out the whole mountain on a weekday, and it won’t cost an arm and a leg. (The mountain is otherwise open on weekends and holidays only.) In summer there is also a Zen-infused Catskill Mountain Yoga Festival with breathtaking views from the yoga platform. (For more on area skiing, see our blog post Skiing in the Catskills and Hudson Valley.)
Looking for a break from the crowds? This 12.5-mile, lightly-trafficked point-to-point trail runs from Margaretville to Balsam Lake Mountain, although the payoff views of the Pepacton Reservoir and valley to Andes are just 1.8-miles in. It’s moderate in difficulty, so make sure you’re prepared with the right shoes and plenty of water. Trail is open year round. To access, from Route 28 in Margaretville, go southeast on Fair Street, then left on Southside Spur. The trailhead is 0.1 mile on the right.
For more advanced hikers, venture to this 12.8-mile loop trail near Margaretville, which includes a segment of the above Dry Brook Ridge, and is rated as difficult. It’s a very quiet route, so soak up the solitude.
If you’ve got a competitive streak, we recommend The Ark Bowl & BBQ, a funky, 120‐seat, refurbished 1960s eight-lane bowling alley, BBQ joint, saloon and music/entertainment venue all rolled into one. Loser buys dinner!
42366 State Route 28, Arkville, 845.586.2695
Kayaking and Cycling (and strolling) in Halcottsville
If water and a peaceful communing with nature is what you’ve really been craving, then head less than ten minutes out of Margaretville to the picturesque hamlet of Halcottsville and rent a kayak to paddle about Lake Wawaka or a bike to cycle a loop around it. It’s such a great way to experience the area’s beauty, and the chances are good that you’ll spot an eagle or heron along the way. Once you’ve worked up an ample appetite, head to Roxbury for a coffee and sandwich at some of our picks above. (Due to Covid, rentals are temporarily closed, but those in the know take their daily constitutional around this largely level loop where there is little to no traffic.)
If you’re on an extended hiatus to the Catskills, you don’t need to give up your gym routine. In fact, it may be improved at the Catskill Recreation Center, a true gift to the area with an indoor pool and impressive gym. You may even meet a new friend or two in an aqua fitness class or crushing it on the weights floor. There are outdoor spin classes and kid-friendly programs too. As with all listings here, do check on Covid-related protocols. Day passes available.
651 County Highway 38, Arkville, 845.586.6250
It’s time to celebrate the brassica family of veggies, and the culture and incredible farming heritage of this special region at this annual festival held in September.
Village Park (behind Freshtown), Bridge Street, Margaretville
Blue Pin = Area businesses and sights • Zoom in/out using “+/-” buttons
A NOTE ABOUT THE AUTHOR: Perri is a New York City-born-and-based writer. Growing up, her family had a country house in Woodridge, where she spent her happiest days lazing in the community pool, playing wall ball with her dad, and on rainy days, wandering the Apollo Plaza mall (how we miss thee!) with her mom. She holds a B.A. in psychology from Columbia University and is also a culinary school graduate of the Natural Gourmet Institute, which is now the Natural Gourmet Center at ICE. Follow her on Twitter @66PerriStreet.